Two Stubborn and The Carretera Austral
First we must clarify that the two stubborn cited in the heading of this story are the proper travelling author, who did a part of the Carretera Austral only in the 4ª attempt and the another one, its non-separable Honda Sahara, that in two occasions, stayed in the Argentinian Patagônia, looking like that it not desire to return to Brazil.
Everything started in 2003, when we plan to travel until Ushuaia and to return for the Austral Carretera. We arrive at the destination, however in the return, at Ruta 40, in reason of the bad conditions of the road, aggravated for a suddenly snowstorm, we fell and the Sahara hitched a lift in a lorry back to home, as story published in this Website.
In 2005, with another motorbike, a BMW F650, we decide that we would make the missing part of the Carretera Austral, however when we arrived in El Bolson, after Bariloche, the information was of almost a flood in that region, form that, for prudence, we give up.
In the two previous projects I had my wife with me, which, at this point, was tired of this "project" of Austral Carretera, so, in Dez/05, with the Sahara, I decided, alone, to pursue this objective, despite that this time, my wife could not follow me.
In this way , (stubborn is an incurable specie!), I left at day 14 of December for well known passages already, in form that was so only "to ride" and "to ride". From Florianópolis, I spent the night in São Borja-RS, far away 850 km. On the following day I changed a little my itinerary and instead of entering Argentina for this locality or in Uruguayana, I decided to follow in direction to Barra of the Quaraí, our extreme South point , but, at the west side.Border Brazil - Uruguay (Barra do Guaraí)
Little more than a hundred km at Uruguayan country, I entered in Argentina throw custom house of Payssandu. Again I passed by the well know places such as Concórdia and Zarate, and spent the night in Lujan, ahead of Buenos Aires.
From Lujan, instead of following for known ways, I took Ruta 5, a highway that practically follows parallel to the Ruta 22, therefore, I always look for alternative roads. The motorbike seemed very good mainly for the fact i used for the first time earplug, reducing significantly the external noise. It reduced the external noise in such a way that I did not perceive the engine "beating" for absolute oil lack, an unforgivable imperfection caused by excess of reliable, in the motorbike and in the mechanic who did the revision before the trip.
I was towed for more than 100 km (in a rope) for an old pickup.truck, spent the night in the first locality and in the following day I contracted an lorry until Cipolletti, a city practically annexed the Neuquém. At the Argentinian Patagonia, where I left the motorbike in cares of a mechanic. I did all the possible to fix it.However they don´t have this kind of motorbike model in Argentina. From that the best solution was to return to Brazil and later to send the necessary parts. In the truth the only parts that were unbroken in the engine was the knuckle and crankshaft.Help for Sahara
The occurrence left me with a terrible feeling of frustration, after all, it was my 3ª attempt to arrive at the Carretera Austral. The only good thing in all of was the possibility of spending Christmas and New Year´s eve with my family and, also, to make a small trip by my tricycle with my wife to Gramado, a beautiful city in the Rio Grande do Sul State. I returned to my day-by-day activities, at the same time i was looking if the mecanic was receiving the parts in Argentina. Fortunately, the mechanic who was taking care of all this, demonstrated, since the beginning, interest in solution up to 100% the situation. The With the Carnival eves, at the end of February, I was informed that the motorbike was completely repaired. I had two options of doing this, to continue the interrupted trip or just take it and come back to home. Stubborn as I am, I did not give up, I decided to continue the trip. Why not? It had trust in the service executed by the mechanic, in form that it was just pick up the motorbike and follow ahead. Only some stops to photograph the beautiful landscape before arriving in Bariloche./Beautiful View Next Bariloche
From Bariloche, I followed in direction to El Bolson, from where we had returned in Abr/05, and to follow to Esquel, where I take the road of rípio (rolling stones) in direction to Paso Futaleufu, this on the Saturday, what make impossible to exchange U$ for Chilean Pesos. Despite of that I followed ahead, worried only in relation to the weather that demonstrated the possibility of rain, common in this Region. The rípio, as I suspected, allows to walk without bigger concerns, since that if it does not abuse the speed. Finally comes the rain and lower temperature. I stopped in a small village until the rain stops and looking forward to the Carretera Austral, whose intersection is far 80km below of Chaiten, with a indicative plate of km until Coyhaique. There I was to face my project.Finally, The Carretera Austral !
No surprise with the rípio at the Carretera. I was just concerned with the unstable weather, because with rain the beautiful landscape is seriously engaged, however, with or without rain, I would follow ahead. Here and there a photo, until in La Junta the rain camed really strong , with cold each more intense time. Even I was wearing clothes of good quality, the humidity accented the cold, in form that I did know already what it would come . Without doubt, the region is gorgeous, however with rain everything is grey and it does not motivate nobody to cover its immediacy to know the beautiful attractions of the places. In the other hand, it was running against the time, I would have to return to my activities in the week after the Carnival and I was 5000 km from my house, from that my main objective was only "to ride in the Carretera Austral". Its beauties could be appreciated in a future trips (with sun, I hope!)In Some Point of the Itinerary
With cold, at the sunset I had ride the 339km until Coyhaique where I spent the night in the first hotel that appeared, which, although it was quite simple, had heat, also human heat! In the following day I was in doubt between following until Chile Chico, by the Buenos Aires lake or crossing the border for High Coyhaique and going in direction to Rio Mayo, in Argentina. As the time continued grey, I opted to the second alternative, now for a secondary rípio until the border, what it demanded more caution. From the border until River Mayo it had been 123 km of more untied rípio, a characteristic of this type of road in Argentina, with strong winds that blew in the direction west - east, or either, for my luck. In case that had been side, some falls would be inevitable at this road.Next to Rio Mayo
From Rio Mayo the road is paved until Comodoro Rivadávia, situated city in the coast of the Atlantic, where I spendt the night. House was the 3,600 km, of form that needed at least 4 days to arrive, since that made at least 900 km/day, what would not be difficult in the excellent roads to leave of this point. I left well early of Commodoro Rivadávia, with the beautiful vision of the sunrise, breaking the monotony of the barren landscape of the Patagônia.Beautiful vision of the sunrise next Comodoro Rivadávia
From Rio Colorado plus the same kilometers, I went to spend the night in Zarate, a city 100 kilometers after Buenos Aires. An important detail is that, now, I practically examined the level of the oil in all stops for gas, would not be duel to the oil that I would be in trouble again. By the way, I must have placed so many oil in the engine that I started to observe the disruption of some retainers, leaving the engine with a terrible aspect. I was in the passage where the Policia Camiñera like to bother the bikers. At a police barrier they ask for the Safe Automobile insurance (a special paper to travel there, wellknow as Green Letter). I was worried, because it was unavailable, it was emitted only for 30 days for the trip in December. Fortunately the policeman did not perceive this and he let me go ahead. From that point I was not stopped there again, going to spend the night in Sao Luiz Gonzaga, at Rio Grande do Sul.Great Bridges in Zarate
An advantage to be in Brazil is to eat our traditional rice and beans. The disadvantage is the traditional holes in the asphalt and gasoline costing almost 1,5 dollar for liter, when I paid practically the half of this in Argentina, without counting that to the South of the neighboring Country this cost even cheaper. After exactly 5,000 kilometers covered since Cipolletti, the two stubborn were in house, safe and with the good sensation of, at least, having walked about 400 km in the rípio of the Carretera Austral. Its beautiful attractions certainly will be seen in another trip.Argentinian Patagonia: Beautiful Landscape, Beautiful Roads....
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